Moisture Meter for the plywood production

Knowing the moisture content of your OSB sub-floor panel is an important indicator on whether to proceed with other stages of the build, especially if hardwood flooring is the next step. You need to know that using a moisture meter doesn’t give very accurate measurements with OSB or other glued products.

why is wood moisture content so important? Because it causes the wood toshrink and expand. There will always be some seasonal changes, but the largest amount of shrinkage happens when drying lumber from “green” to normal humidity levels.ood hardly shrinks in length, but seasonal changes can easily be a percent or more in width (perpendicular to the grain), so any time pieces of wood join at an angle, one has to take different rates of seasonal shrinkage into account.

OSB (when produced) will typically have a moisture content (MC) in the 2% to 8% range but will certainly increase in the field and definitely will be higher if exposed to rain or high humidity conditions. Even if the panels (roof, wall or floor) are not exposed to rain, their MC will change as a result of the relative humidity and (to a very small degree) temperature.

Contact your moisture meter manufacturer and ask them how best to calibrate their equipment for use with OSB. Always follow the hardwood flooring manufacturer’s instructions – especially regarding acclimatizing their product and the MC conditions required prior to installing the flooring so you can take the appropriate steps for a problem free floor.

some advice on how to heat and/ or improve my materials’ storage area to keep my material as flat as possible\

 

reason it is warping is because the moisture is changing after the panels are manufactured. This is 100% certain. It is my guess that your storage area is very dry, drier than the MC of the wood. For about $25 you can get a digital humidity gage from Radio Shack. Check your RH 3 times during the day. You probably need to humidity the storage area (which can be done by adding moisture or cooling the area to about 25 degrees above outside) to about 30 to 35% RH in the wintertime. If you go much more humid, than the pieces will dry excessively when they reach the customer’s home or office and warp at that point.

You should also purchase a pin-type moisture meter and check the incoming MC. In this case, due to thickness variation, you will find that a pin is easier to use than non-pin. Both work well; it is just in your case that a pin will be easier for you.

Plywood is composed of grains glued together in alternating patterns, crossing the fiber grains to create one of the strongest types of wood on the market. This durable material is used for roofs, cabinets, floors, and other projects. When plywood retains moisture, the plies, previously fastened into varying patterns, may separate and ruin the product. Mold may grow and cause damaged goods and health concerns. Moist plywood is useless plywood. Controlling the moisture during the manufacturing process is key to:

    • Producing a quality product
    • Increased productivity
    • Decreased production costs

Source from :http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2010/09/03/moisture-content-wood-movement/

Understanding Moisture Content and Wood Movement

(with Gene Wengert, The Wood Doctor.)

Expected movement can be accurately predicted, which means avoiding potential problems down the road.

In this article, we’ll explain the importance of understanding wood movement, how to use a moisture meter to measure the moisture content (MC) of trim, how to decide when a load of trim should be rejected, and how to accurately estimate how much trim will move after it’s installed.

Most finish carpenters are aware that seasonal changes in humidity cause trim and flooring to shrink in the winter and expand in the summer. But few realize that the expected movement can be accurately predicted and potential problems avoided. It’s our premise that with a moisture meter and an understanding of wood movement, most wood movement problems can be avoided. Plus, with this data, finish carpenters can accurately predict how trim and flooring will behave after it’s installed.

Wood Movement — You Can’t Stop It

Wood is hygroscopic, which means its MC will fluctuate based on the relative humidity (RH)of the surrounding air. As humidity increases, the MC increases, and the wood expands, and as the humidity decreases, MC decreases, and the wood shrinks. This relationship is referred to asEquilibrium Moisture Content (EMC), and can be accurately predicted.

Understanding Equilibrium Moisture Content

The moisture content of wood is tied directly to the relative humidity of the surrounding air. The higher the relative humidity, the higher the MC of the wood. Period. If you’re installing wood that’s recently been transported, or installed on a job, it might take a little while for the material to reach its equilibrium moisture content (EMC) with the air—in other words, for the wood to accommodate to the humidity level for the climate around the wood: the wood may take on more moisture or it may dry out. For example, if wood at 10% MC is exposed to 25% RH, the wood will dry to 5% MC (and shrink as it dries).

The EMC helps us understand the response wood will have to relative humidity, whether it will shrink or expand. For woodworkers and carpenters, the EMC is more helpful than RH. The simplified chart to the right shows the EMC values of wood when stored at the humidity and temperatures indicated.

Complete EMC levels for wood stored in unheated structures in your area of the country can be found HERE.

How Wood Moves

If the MC of the wood you install is too high, excessive shrinkage may occur, along with the risk of problems of unacceptable gaps and cracks in the wood itself. When the MC is too low, the wood may expand, and may buckle, bow, and distort surrounding material.

There are six key areas finish carpenters should be aware of when it comes to wood movement.

1. Width of material

The wider the board, the more movement will occur (the term “board” technically refers to wood 1 1/2 in. thick or less, but for this article its use will refer to wood typically used by finish carpenters). It’s a direct proportion: an 8-in. board will move twice as much as a 4-in. board, and a 12-in. board will move 3 times the amount as a 4-in. board. And it’s important to keep in mind that a glued-up panel behaves basically as one wide piece of lumber.

 

2. Grain orientation matters

Boards are characterized as being either “flat sawn” or “quarter sawn.” Quarter sawn lumber (also referred to as “rift sawn” or “vertical grain”) shrinks and expands roughly half as much as flat sawn. Most over-the-counter finish material is flat sawn, and you should assume flat sawn values unless you’re sure your material is quarter sawn. Quarter sawn lumber has annular rings that are oriented between 45 and 90 degrees to the board’s face. Flat sawn grain orientation falls between 0 and 45 degrees to the board’s face.

Wood Grain (Note: Click any image to enlarge. Hit “back” button to return to article”)

3. Moisture content of the wood at delivery

The only way to accurately predict wood movement is to know the MC of the material when you receive it. Moisture content is measured using a moisture meter. Failure to check your delivered material means you have no chance of anticipating movement problems. Furthermore, material that measures outside of the acceptable MC level should be rejected.

4. Humidity inside and outside the structure

Homes in most of the U.S. that lack humidity control typically experience interior levels of humidity from 25% RH to 65% RH. This range of humidity will cause a 6% change in the MC of the wood. This change in MC will cause a 12-in. wide maple board to change 1/4 in.

When material is installed that was delivered at an unacceptable MC, or the humidity range in the structure exceeds typical values, the amount of wood movement increases—and can cause problems even in well-designed trim details. It’s worth noting that panel material (plywood, MDF, composite materials) move at about 1/10th the rate of solid wood.

In most of North America, exterior humidity levels range from 60% RH to 70% RH in summer and winter, but are lower in the Southwest, and higher near large bodies of water. If the material is delivered at 6 to 8% MC, it can experience more than a 2% change in size as it adjusts to the EMC.

5. Species affects the amount of movement

Wood movement depends in part on the species. A 12-in. wide western red cedar board will fluctuate 1/8 in. while the same size maple board will fluctuate 1/4 in. The formula for calculating wood movement is complex and extremely accurate, but tedious.

One simple rule of thumb serves as an approximate guide to predicting wood movement: “Most species of flat grain material will change size 1% for every 4% change in MC.” Applying this formula to a situation where the seasonal EMC ranges from 6% to 10%, a 12-in. wide board will change dimension 1/8 in.

I’ve put together a rough chart (see below, click to enlarge) that offers approximate movement values for various widths and commonly used species of wood. These values are based on flat sawn lumber, and offer a general idea of anticipated annual in-service movement. The movement values for quarter sawn lumber are approximately 1/2 the flat sawn values.

If you want to know exactly how much the material you’re using is going to shrink or expand, use this online shrinkage calculator. Simply enter the high and low MC values and the width and species of the board.

6. Applied finish does not stop movement

While it’s true a high quality finish will slow the rate of moisture exchange, it will not stop it. Material finished on all surfaces will expand or contract at a slower rate than raw wood, but make no mistake—finished wood will eventually acclimate to EMC levels.

Events That Increase Movement Risks

There are many events that can contribute to excessive wood movement issues. Nearly all of them can be prevented before they cause a problem if—and only if—you measure the MC of the wood as soon as it’s delivered, and avoid using wood that is too wet or too dry for the expected in-use EMC. The moment the wood is delivered, it begins to acclimate to the surrounding environment. At the very least, it’s important that you document the delivered MC, just in case wood movement becomes an issue. But responsible carpentry can’t be accomplished without reading the delivered moisture content of the wood and planning for wood movement during and after acclimation.

Excessive MC in delivered material

Optimum MC for interior millwork is 6-8%. In the real world, your material may arrive around 9-10%. For installations in unheated areas, the preferred readings are in the 12-14% range, assuming an area is protected from the weather. In most cases, you can deal with material that’s a couple of points high, but keep in mind that the wider the stock, the greater the movement. Ideally, the moisture content of wood should not change more than 2% when put into use.

Think through your trim details and consider how they will react when the wider assemblies shrink. With wide glued-up material, slightly higher MC levels may not be acceptable. If you’ll be installing wide material, it’s a good idea to be upfront with your supplier and let them know that the material’s MC must be within the range you specify. As a last resort, you may choose to dry the wood in your shop if the shop’s EMC is low, and have any shrinkage problems show up before the wood is installed.

Delivered material that’s too dry

This is seldom an issue for interior trim, but can be a real issue for exterior trim. Material delivered at 6% MC, and installed outside, will acclimate at 12% in the more humid months, resulting in a 6 point MC change. This swelling of the material can cause significant problems in situations where installation creates accumulated movement (more on this below).

Long-term storage of trim material

If you plan on storing trim material for any length of time in an unheated area, keep in mind that, in most parts of the US, the material will acclimate to roughly 11-12% MC. (See the humidity moisture content chart at the beginning of this article.)

If MC is too high, lower readings can be achieved by moving the material into a heated area. The amount will depend on the temperature and humidity of the storage area. The change in MC won’t happen immediately, and the material in the center of a pile will change at a slower rate than the material at the edges. Spacing the material so all surfaces are exposed to the air helps, as does good air circulation throughout the pile. You’ll need to take sample readings with your moisture meter to determine when the material reaches your intended MC.

Higher temperatures result in a more rapid change in MC when the humidity remains constant (roughly speaking, moisture moves twice as quickly for every increase in temperature of 20 degrees). And despite what you may think, moisture gain or loss does not stop when temperatures fall below freezing. The moisture in wood is chemically bound in the walls of the wood cells and cannot freeze.

Typical on-site humidity

At certain points during construction, such as when pouring concrete, plastering or drywalling, tremendous amounts of moisture are often added to the air, causing humidity spikes as high as 80-85% RH. If you are storing finish material on-site during these periods, be sure to keep them wrapped in a vapor impermeable material (like plastic) with as few gaps as possible. Wood stored in this manner will not pick up any appreciable moisture.

Interior trim should not be installed until the temporary construction humidity has subsided. Use an accurate digital hygrometer to measure RH (under $40). Generally speaking, interior trim should not be installed when the humidity is above 60%, or the material may climb above acceptable MC levels.

Humidity in un-heated areas fluctuates about 10%; therefore dry material (6% to 8% MC) installed in un-heated areas will swell significantly. It’s important that the MC of exterior trim be within 2-3 points of the EMC values for the area before it is installed.

In-service low humidity issues

In heating climates, older, drafty homes may see humidity drop, measuring 20% RH in the winter. The EMC in this environment will vary nearly 8% wintertime to summertime. Homes with wood stoves and no humidity control can see EMC swings of up to 11%. In extreme environments, consider using cabinet grade plywood for wide panel application instead of solid wood.

In-service high humidity issues

Typically, high humidity (constant levels above 60%) is not an issue. But if you find yourself working on a project that includes a room with a spa, heated pool, or damp crawl space, proceed with serious caution—85% RH means an 18% EMC. A 12-in. wide piece of birch installed at 8% MC in such a room will swell in width over 3/8 in. Letting your material acclimate to the high MC levels before installing is one approach, but keep in mind that if there is ever a period where the pool is drained for a significant time, and the humidity drops to typical levels, the trim material will experience severe shrinkage. A carefully-worded disclaimer regarding wood movement would seem to be in order.

Understanding Accumulated Wood Movement

Glued-up solid wood panels behave as though they were one wide board—a 24-in. wide panel will shrink and swell four times as much as a 6-in. board. But what about a series of boards installed side by side (T&G flooring, for example)? While it’s true that each board can move independently, accumulated movement can cause significant problems, typically when the newly installed material gains moisture. (See photo, right)

If the material in non-glued assemblies (flooring, for example) is installed “tight”, and there’s no gap to absorb expansion as the material gains moisture, the increase in width of each floor board becomes cumulative, and causes the entire floor to “grow” buy the sum of each piece’s individual movement. In cases of excessive shrinkage, unacceptable gaps can result between each floorboard.

For example, random width oak flooring is delivered at 8% MC. The width of the room is 12 feet, and the floor acclimates to a high level of 11% MC, the cumulative movement is about 1 3/8 in. In the real world, a lot of this expansion is “lost” as the fit tightens up, but in some cases the wood fibers compress, and fiber compression can cause grain ridges. By using a moisture meter, and predicting the movement, you can decide whether you should install the material “tight” or “loose” to absorb what you know will be an increase in material width.

Moisture content on exterior trim can range from 12% to 16% depending on the region, time of year, and location of the material. (Click images to enlarge)

Common Movement Issues

Paneled Passage Doors

Experienced door hangers know that a paneled passage door with a tight reveal will shrink in the winter and possibly stick in the summer. (Remember, if you live in California, the winters may be more humid than the summers!). But basing your door gap on the time of year you hang the door can be a mistake if you don’t know the MC of the door.

The seasonal width changes of a door are controlled by the MC change in the door’s stiles.

. . . . . . . . . .

If that fir door you’re getting ready to hang in the winter has been stored for six months in an unheated building, the moisture of the 5-in. stiles may easily measure 12-13% MC. After that door is hung, the MC of those stiles will drop to 6%, and the door can easily shrink 3/16 in. Knowing the MC at the time of installation provides the needed guidance.

And keep in mind that the door panels in this example will shrink significantly after installation. This won’t affect the fit of the door, but if the door finish is applied at the MC noted, there will likely be unfinished wood exposed as the door panels shrink to their in-service width. (See photo, left) This is particularly noticeable when a light wood is stained dark.

By measuring the MC of the door stiles, you can base your door gap on established movement values, not guesswork, and avoid callbacks when the fit becomes a problem.

Doors with horizontal battens

Unless you’re setup to build these doors properly, avoid them. The typical horizontal batten door is built using T&G material for the door face, and then battens are fastened to the back of the door to hold things in place. As the seasonal MC of the T&G material rises and falls, the boards expand and contract, but the battens—with their grain running in the opposite direction—resist that movement, forcing the door to cup inward or outward depending on the direction of the movement.

The detail below is one method used for cabinet batten doors that successfully allows for seasonal wood movement.

Captive panels

Resist the temptation to “picture frame” a solid wood panel—the way some woodworkers new to the craft miter a nosing or a frame around a tabletop. The miter joint will always fail when the panel expands and contracts. Instead, use a breadboard nosing design so that the wide panel can shrink or swell without destroying the surrounding joinery. (See below)

Inside corner trim

When installing trim that covers an inside corner, fasten the trim through the corner and into the substrate so the adjoining finish material can move independently as its MC changes. A typical example is base shoe molding. The best practice is to nail base shoe to the plate, with a long nail that doesn’t penetrate the baseboard or the flooring. But that’s not practical on most jobs.

The second choice is to fasten the baseshoe to the baseboard. Yes, the baseboard will lift off the floor in the heating season, but rarely more than 1/16 in. A wide floor, on the other hand, moves more than a 6-in. piece of baseboard; if you nail the base shoe to the floor, the base shoe may separate significantly from the baseboard.

. . . . . . . . . .

Common Myths

Wood is stable at below freezing temperatures.

The moisture in wood is chemically bound in the walls of the wood cells and cannot freeze, and expansion and contraction continues at below freezing temperatures. Wood does acclimate more slowly at lower temperatures.

Wood will expand on warmer days and contract on colder days.

For all practical purposes, thermal expansion and contraction of wood is not an issue. That said, warmer temperatures speed the exchange of moisture within the wood. Moisture exchange will happen more rapidly at warmer temperatures, but there is no thermal movement of wood worth measuring.

It doesn’t matter if lumber is kiln-dried.

Kiln-dried hardwood lumber typically leaves the kiln near 6% MC (softwoods at 10-12%). But all kiln-dried material will acclimate to the surrounding EMC levels. The significant advantages of kiln-dried material is that it is typically heated to at least 130 degrees in the kiln, which will stop any insect activity, and also “set” the sap in resinous softwoods (sap in resinous air dried material can bleed from the board after it’s installed, especially when interior temperatures rise in the summer).

They don’t make wood like they used to.

It’s true that most of the old growth timber is gone, but properly dried vertical grain material has highly desirable movement characteristics. If you’re seeking material that will move the least, choose one of the more stable species, and specify vertical grain (and be sure to check your wallet before ordering!).

But most importantly, owning and using a moisture meter and knowing the in-use EMCs is an inexpensive way for carpenters to predict and avoid wood movement problems that could require costly repairs.

———

AUTHOR BIOS

Carl Hagstrom is a partner in Woodweb, the leading online resource for professional woodworking. He has an extensive background in residential construction and architectural woodworking. He is also a contributing editor at the Journal of Light Construction, and a Certified Professional Building Designer.

Gene Wengert—having taken an interest in woodworking since 7th grade shop classes—was employed by the US Forest Products Lab as a college student starting in 1961. He worked in solar lumber drying, as well as discoloration of wood due to UV light. He then worked on the weathering of wood with the Lab and received a BS degree in meteorology from the University of Wisconsin. He continued to work on moisture related issues and developed expertise in processing northern and Rocky Mountain aspen, going from environmental benefits of the species through sawing, drying, and marketing. (Aspen is splinterless, did you know?) He worked at Virginia Tech as a wood specialist for the extension service, consulting with the wood industry daily. He also managed Tech’s sawmill and dry kiln.

For fun, Gene has taken up long-distance bicycle riding (at age 55) and has done two trips from the Pacific to Atlantic Ocean and three from the Gulf to Minneapolis.

Dr. Gene Wengert is Professor Emeritus in Wood Processing, Department of Forestry, at the University of Wisconsin (Madison). He is also a technical advisor at Woodwebs’s Sawing and Drying Forum, and Commercial Kiln Drying Forum. He frequently contributes to trade journals serving the primary lumber processing industry, and is president of The Wood Doctor’s Rx, LLC, through which he provides educational and consulting services to lumber processing firms.

Plywood Moisture Application

It is not enough to merely measure only the outside moisture index of plywood – the moisture content inside the material is most important. The sensor specially designed for the MoistTech IR-3000 is ideal for wood materials in all stages of production. The MoistTech product database enables pre-calibration of the moisture sensor.

Installation is easy no matter how extreme the location– the IR-3000 just needs fixed a few inches above the plywood production line. Other services can be provided, including general data via Ethernet connections, operator interface, and digital displays.

Source from :http://www.moisturemeters.com

When choosing a moisture meter for wood there are some key things to watch for:

Versatility: The meter must be able to read the true moisture content (MC) in the wood regardless of surface moisture or temperature changes.

Species to be measured: Most meters are not designed to measure every type of wood product, so it is important that you choose a meter that will fit your specific materials’ needs.

Destructive or non-destructive: If the holes will not show, then a pin-type meter may suffice. A good quality meter is a long term investment, and consideration should be given to project needs later on down the road. A pinless meter that uses electromagnetic field (EMF) technology might be the better choice for measuring moisture in a variety of wood situations.

Keep these three things in mind and you should be off to a good start when choosing the meter that is just right for your project needs.

Why Buy a Moisture Meter?

Industry experts agree that 75% of all wood manufacturing and quality problems are MC related. Improper MC levels in wood can affect the overall quality and durability of a product. Without a moisture detector to verify the MC, costly mistakes will certainly be made.

It is important that all incoming wood received into a manufacturing facility be immediately checked with a moisture meter for proper MC levels before any other value-added manufacturing is done. Improper MC in the manufacturing process can end up with excessive product waste and possible customer product liability claims.

Woodworkers, wood flooring installers, and inspectors must also use a wood moisture meter to avoid costly problems in their project or at their jobsite.

Since wood is a cellulosic material, it is continually losing or gaining water to or from the surrounding environment. Woodworkers must know what the wood they’re working with will eventually equalize to (click here for an exhaustive read or view this short wood moisture video series to learn more) in order to avoid major problems in the project they’re working on, then use a wood moisture meter to verify that the wood is at (or near) the correct MC.

Monitoring the MC of wood can help you eliminate the following problems:

  1. Shrinkage and swelling of wood
  2. Cupping, warping, cracking, and crowning of the wood
  3. Surface finishing problems

Moisture Meter Technology

There are two main methods of moisture content (MC) measurement: capacitance and resistance.

Resistance Meters (Pin Meters)

These are commonly known as pin meters and used to be the most commonly used meters throughout the world. They have two or more pins that are pushed into the wood. Direct current travels out one pin into the moist wood and is picked up by another pin. These meters measure the resistance to a current. Dry wood allows little current to pass, damper wood permits more. The meter reads how much resistance there is to the current and correlates the resistance to wood MC.

Electromagnetic Wave Technology (EMW Meters)

Sometimes called pinless meters, these meters measure the MC of wood without piercing the wood with pins. These meters emit electrical waves through a sensor that is pressed against the wood. The waves create an electromagnetic field (EMF) the size of the sensor to a depth up to either .75″ to 1.0″ depending on which model is specified. The field behaves differently depending on how much moisture is in the wood. EMF meters are based on the capacitance method, but a properly designed meter will take many more factors into consideration. EMF meters measure the capacity of wood to store energy (capacitance), the amount of power the wood absorbs from the field (power loss), or the woods resistance to the field (impedance). The meters translate this electrical information to percent MC (%MC). The first practical and portable EMW moisture meter was invented by Delmer Wagner in the ’90s.

Here’s a short list of the factors affecting each type of meter.

EMW Meter Pin Meter
Temperature No Yes
Chemicals No Yes
Wood Orientation No Yes
Moisture Gradient No Yes
Wet Pockets No Yes
Wood Species Yes* Yes**
Wood Density Yes* No
Surface Texture Yes No

*Certain EMW moisture meters correct this either digitally or using a lookup table.

**Some pin meters may correct this using a lookup table.

Some factors on this list you may intuitively understand. Since EMW meters create a 3D average of the wood MC, the orientation of the wood won’t affect their readings. Pin meters are affected by wet pockets when the small path current travels through it, even if the rest of the wood is significantly drier. Even temperature will affect the resistance of wood measured by pin meters.

From this list, you probably have gained a healthy skepticism regarding the accuracy of pin meter readings. Although some woodworkers will almost never have to deal with factors like chemicals, the factors affecting pin meters are the most difficult to assess. Surface texture, density, and species may either be assessed visually or will already be known. Wet pockets are impossible to correct with a pin meter. On the other hand, some EMW meters will read up to 1-2% lower on extremely rough surfaces, as you begin to measure the air trapped there instead of the wood. On most boards, simply pressing the meter firmly against the wood negates this factor; on extremely rough wood, you may want to add 1% onto your reading.

Little-known (yet significant) factor: Many pin moisture meters have a cord connecting the pins that are hammered into the wood to the reading unit. (The models with pins and meter connected can’t be driven into the wood enough to get a significant reading.) On these meters, try simply changing the position of the cord and watch the readings change. It would be almost amusing if the consequences of incorrect readings weren’t so serious.

Are all Pinless Moisture Meters Created Equal?

Users Review Top Pinless Moisture Meters

With so many pinless wood moisture meters on the market, it’s hard to know which one is the easiest to operate and the most accurate. When your reputation depends on the success rate of your flooring or woodworking projects, your moisture meter needs to provide you with accurate readings you can count on. False readings that are caused by inferior products are not acceptable.

Below, we have compared the features, benefits, and reviews (when available) of some of the most popular brands and devices that are available on the market. We hope this information will provide you with unbiased knowledge that will help you decide which moisture meter is the best fit for you.

 

Wagner Moisture Meter Models

MMC205 Digital Shopline by Wagner Meters

MMC205
Description:

The MMC205 is designed for flooring installers and hobbyists working with woodworking applications involving common softwood and hardwood species that don’t require precision tenth-of-a-percent measurement. Various wood species settings can be selected, helping to eliminate correction table referral after readings are taken. This unit is not affected by temperature or surface moisture.

Price: $280.00

MMC205 Features:

  • IntelliSense™ technology
  • Moisture content 5-20%
  • Programmable species settings
  • Wood thickness from 0.75 in. to 1.5 in.
  • Select species setting
  • Battery included
  • Soft vinyl case included
  • Reference library CD included
  • Weight: .37 lbs.
  • Size: Length – 4 9/16″; Width – 2 3/4″; Height – 1 1/16″
  • 7-year warranty*

*Warranty includes all MMC and MMl Wagner moisture meters manufactured after Jan 1, 2012.

Benefits:

  • More accurate and 10 times faster than pin-style meters
  • Wagner meters are designed to give stable readings, eliminating worry of drifting numbers
  • Meter will maintain accurate calibration when maintained properly
  • One button control (on/off and species settings) makes unit faster and easier to operate
  • Scans wood in seconds, providing quick and accurate moisture measurement without damaging wood
  • Lightweight and easy to carry so you can negotiate tight areas and obtain accurate readings
  • Accurate readings help eliminate callbacks, saving time and money
  • Manufactured and supported in the United States with a risk-free 7-year warranty

Ideal moisture content in plywood

By Abhijit Phadke

 

An important parameter for the determining the quality of plywood is its moisture content. If the plywood is very dry (having low moisture content) then the plywood strength gets adversely affected and it becomes weak. On the other hand if the plywood is too moist, then it is likely to decay and rot in the future.

Plywood
A plywood sheet displaying ISI mark, photographed at a carpenters shop in Navi Mumbai, India.

Hence it is essential that the moisture content of the plywood be within acceptable limits, As per the Indian standards specification IS:303 (governed by BIS) the ideal content of moisture in plywood should be in the range of 5% to 15%. For marine grade plywood also, the moisture content specification is the same. At any time of the year the plywood moisture content (depending on which part of the country the testing is done), should be between 5 and 15 percent.

So how is the moisture reduced

Plywood is a very strong engineered wood that is manufactured by pressing several layers of veneers (thin slices of wood) over one another. During the process of manufacturing the plywood, the veneers after being rotary-cut are dried using mechanical dryers so as to reduce the moisture content present in the wood. This is essential because proper glueing of the layers is not possible if the veneers have moisture greater than 10%.

For the purpose of drying the veneers, they are passed through the mechanical dryers (hot ovens) on belts moved by rollers, and at the same time fans circulate the hot air generated by the heating coils of the oven all over the veneer faces, so as to completely dry them. After the veneers are sufficiently dry, they are stacked upon one another and bonded together using hot press machines (which glue the veneers together under high pressure and temperature) to make the plywood sheets.

How is the moisture content determined

Simple hand-held devices such as moisture meters are used for this purpose. These devices are available in both analog and digital versions and work in the same way that a resistance meter works. The moisture meter has two probes (pins) which are inserted into the plywood at a fixed distance apart, and the battery powered meter then passes a voltage through the wood.

Because water (which is present in the form of moisture in the plywood) is a good conductor of electricity an electrical path gets established, and the meter then calculates the resistance to flow of current, and displays it in terms of moisture content percentage.

Having said this, it is essential to note that this content will not remain the same. For example, after manufacturing if the plywood is transported to an area that has a very humid climate the moisture content is very likely to increase. Ambient heat and humidity affects the plywood and it will try to achieve an equilibrium with its new surroundings.

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