Shelving Grade Particleboard Inspection and QC checklist

Shelving Grade Particleboard Inspection and QC checklist

Particleboard furnish is derived from a multiple of sources and as the competition for solid wood and solid wood residues increases, manufacturers are having to resort to the use of low grade residues, such as hogged mill waste, sawdust, planer shavings, etc., as well as wood species not previously considered.



During transportation and storage, the boards are protected from wetness, dirt, ground contact, dents and scratches. The boards are stored face down on a flat base. If necessary, supporting timber can be used at intervals of 0.5 metres. A pile of boards is covered with a protective sheet.

Before installation, particle boards should be aired for 5-7 days, as close as possible to their final conditions of moisture and temperature. When being aired, the boards are kept apart from each other using separating strips, and stacked against a wall, for example.


Particle boards can be worked using all tools suitable for working with wood. A table-mounted or portable circular saw, for example, is suitable for sawing the boards. Smaller sawing jobs can also be done with a regular hand saw. Contour sawing can be done with a jig saw.


The length of nails used to fasten particle boards should be at least three times the thickness of the board, but no less than 30 mm, and the length of screws at least 2½ times the thickness of the board, but no less than 25 mm. The boards are fastened at intervals of 100-200 mm on each side and 200-300 mm at the centre. The distance of the fasteners from the edge of the board is about 10 mm.


Particle boards can be painted, wallpapered and laminated. All general products meant for the interior painting of wooden surfaces are suitable for painting the boards.


The painting of untreated standard particle board requires priming, in which the surface of the board is painted with one thin coat of white unthinned interior primer. Nail or screw heads that remain visible are filled and dried and then sanded to a smooth finish. 1-2 coats of finishing painting are applied using the desired colour. When using ready primed boards, surface painting alone is sufficient. Rolling is the best way to apply the paint.


Nail or screw heads that remain visible are filled and dried and then sanded to a smooth finish. Board joints are filled with elastic sealing strip. Once the glue has dried, the joints are filled and sanded to a smooth finish. Wallpapering is done according to the instructions of the wallpaper manufacturer. At the corners, the sheets of wallpaper should not overlap.



If the boards are intact and dry, particle boards may be used again on a case-by-case basis. Re-use is the most popular was of ’disposing of’ particle boards.


Because particle board is mainly clean natural wood, it can be disposed of (in accordance with local environmental authority guidelines) by burying it in the ground, composting, taking to landfill or burning at a temperature of more than 800 C with other wood material.


Particle board is also very suitable for building furniture on-site, and for making different do-it-yourself products. Special countersunk screws, different kinds of mounting hardware and screws and mortise joints are suitable for putting together particle board furniture and board structures.

15-18 mm coated (e.g. melamine-coated) boards are very suitable as frame structures for particle board furniture. 22-28 mm-thick board should be used for table tops and covers. Thin 3-6 mm-thick particle board or hardboard is suitable as backing plates.

The edges of particle board that remain visible can be covered with special chafing strip, veneer or wooden batten strips. The best result is achieved by using boards that have already been coated and edged at the factory. If you want to paint the edges, they should first be covered with a paintable chafing strip or given two layers of filler and sanded.

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